world biking africa: cyclist info

country specific advice.

france.

routes & roads All prejudices aside, France stands out as a top destination for cycling.  Great diversity of landscapes, vast stretches of picture-perfect countryside and courteous drivers combined with unbeatable bakeries put it at the top of our list. Drivers are generally courteous and give cyclists a wide berth.  Route-wise, you really can't  go wrong in a country blessed with such natural beauty, although the south of France is probably best avoided in August, when roads are congested and campsites are all well-booked in advance. Cycle paths are gaining ground and there are some well-established circuits which are popular with tourers.  Check out Lonely Planet's Cycling France for details.
food & lodging Self-catering is quite economic if you stick to hard-discounters such as Lidl, Ed or Aldi which are proliferating on the outskirts of French cities.  For more ambiance you'll surely want to head to the numerous local markets and sample the wide variety of cheeses, pâtés and fruits and vegetables.  Campgrounds are a real bargain and even the smallest of communes usually has a few sites available, although they may only open during the holiday periods of mid-June through August.  Municipal camp sites are your best bet if you want to keep costs down.  
the locals Touring is still uncommon in France and the locals are generally impressed and intrigued when you speed by on a fully-loaded bike.  Tourist information facilities are excellent and offer free, detailed maps of individual regions and information on campsites.  Relying exclusively on their information, we were able to travel without lugging around a guidebook.

spain.

routes & roads Most of our time cycling in Spain was spent following the Camino de Santiago (St. James´ Way).  Most parts are well-suited to mountain biking, but at some points you'll have to deviate from the pilgrim's path and follow nearby roads.  It's very easy to find your way, as there are large yellow arrows pointing you in the right direction the entire length of the trail.  Lots of areas are treeless, so its probably best to avoid July and August.  We were there in June and didn't have any problems with the heat.  In fact it was quite chilly in some mountainous parts.  On the southern coast near Marbella roads are busy and congested, and although its a coastal road, we hardly enjoyed the cycling.
food & lodging Along the Camino you'll find numerous albergues (guesthouses) set up to welcome pilgrims. Be sure to register as a pilgrim in advance or you won't be able to stay there.  Registration normally takes place at the start of the journey in St. Jean Pied de Port (France) near the Spanish border.  It only costs a few euros to get the official Pilgrims Credential and its quite fun to fill it up with stamps in all the historical and religious places you visit.  Plus, most importantly, this is the only way you can take advantage of the albergues.  They are are real bargain, costing just 3 or 4 euros for a dorm bed and there are usually cooking facilities as well.  Camping in Spain was not a pleasant experience for us. Most campgrounds are noisy places, with screaming kids and blaring music well into the night.  Politely pleading for a little peace and quiet will likely be met with bemusement, but no action.  
There are the usual grocery discounters--Lidl and Aldi plus Dia.  All good for keeping the budget in control.  It's difficult to find a bakery that opens up early, so be sure to buy your bread the evening before.  
the locals


portugal.

routes & roads Cycling Portugal's Atlantic coast is an exhilarating experience. Rocky shorelines, sheer cliffs and panoramic views combined with long stretches of pristine beaches make Portugal a must for those who are drawn to the sea.  Traffic can be a menace, but with the help of EU funding, bicycle paths are being constructed in some areas.  
food & lodging
Campgrounds are often located on the beach, a few kilometers inland from the main roads. In general, they are not such noisy affairs as in Spain, but you won't find as much peace as in France, unless you go to camping areas catering to foreign tourists.  These are usually simple affairs, and lack facilities such as restaurants and swimming pools that Portuguese holiday-makers seem to prefer.  The majority of campgrounds are privately owned, and prices can be quite high, especially for one of the EU's  less wealthy countries.
Restaurants are cheaper than in neighboring Spain, and the daily special can be a good deal.
the locals

morocco.

routes & roads Roads in Morocco are almost all surfaced.  Enjoy them while you can, because this won't be the case in sub-Saharan Africa.  The rides through the Atlas mountains really shouldn't be missed.  Just remember that even though you're at a high altitude, it can still be extremely hot in the summer months and you won't find much shade---especially in the barren Anti-Atlas.
food & lodging Morocco has a good network of camp sites and there is a guidebook (in French) which rates them.  Most campgrounds have got a copy of the guide, so you can jot down details and plan your next stopover.  Campgrounds are usually good value for money, and many meet European standards.  Others are derelict, but usually in a fantastic location-the camping site near the Bin-el-Ouidane dam comes to mind.  The country is overrun with French tourists in August, so it's better to travel outside of this peak period if possible.
If you're continuing on to sub-Saharan Africa, enjoy your fill of fresh fruit and veggies while you can.  Pickings get rather slim further south.
the locals Amongst many Westerners, Morocco is perceived as a dangerous country, where you should be on the lookout for pickpockets, bag-snatchers and scam artists.  Nothing could be further from the truth..well, at least in rural areas.  Moroccans are highly hospitable and will bend over backwards to ensure you're having a good time in their country.  They are genuinely concerned about your welfare and won't hesitate to stop and see if you need assistance in any way.
visas Visas are not needed for EU nationals.
money 11 Dirhams = 1 Euro (August 2006)

western sahara.

routes & roads Western Sahara offers surprisingly beautiful landscapes on some stretches of the highway--it's not just dull desert as your guidebook claims.  Sheer cliffs dropping down into the ocean, fisherman's hut perched precariously high above the sea and even some amazing dunes.  Smooth tarmac and flat terrain mean you can easily rack up 150 KM a day unless you're hampered by a headwind (which shouldn't be the case).  There are police checkpoints along the route, but its just a mater of filling in a form with routine information.  No hassles whatsoever--apart from the time it takes to fill in all the blanks and respond to the curious police officer's questions about why  you would be so crazy as to want to cycle through Africa.
food & lodging Settlements and petrol stations are pretty well-spaced as to make convenient stopovers.  Our itinerary and daily kilometers cycled were as follows:  
Bouizarkane    127
Tan Tan    182
Akhfenir    125
Tarfaya    110
Laayoune    105
Boujdour    198
Echtoukan    180
Dakhla    180
Chicas    136
Barbas    164
Nouadhibou    154
roadside tent settlement    137
roadside settlement   114
roadside tent settlement    132
Nouakchott    122
Food and water didn't pose any major problems for us--even the service stations have reasonably well-stocked shops and decent restaurants.  See africabybike.org for lots of helpful info and tips from Luke and Anna about traversing the Sahara.
the locals The Sahelians will be eager to discuss the political situation, but this may get them into trouble as the police frown on such exchanges with foreign tourists.  Got a rather cold reception in----where children tossed an egg in our direction.  Perhaps the strong UN presence has something to do with their dislike of foreigners.
visas Western Sahara is under Moroccan control, so a normal Moroccan visa is all you need.  There are numerous road road blocks, which is tiresome and time-consuming, but you will never be asked to pay a bribe or be hassled if your papers are in order.  Policeman and military personnel are generally courteous and professional.
money 11 Dirhams = 1 Euro (August 2006)

mauritania.

routes & roads The days of slogging it out on the arduous piste are long gone, and now its smooth tarmac from the Moroccan border in the north all the way to the Senegalese border in the south. You should have a gentle  tailwind pushing you along, so who could ask for more...except for a little shade once in awhile
food & lodging In the Sahara south from the border with Morocco to Nouakchoot, you'll find 'rest areas' every 40 or 50 kilometers.  These are canvas tents with comfortable cushions where you can relax and escape from the unrelenting sun.  Food is also served , but there's little for non-meat eaters--only tinned vegetables, no bread or even omelettes.  Best to stock up with provisions in Western Sahara.  These rest areas also offer some type of very basic lodging, or you can pitch your tent nearby.  Water is always available, although sometimes its a bit murky and comes in jerry cans.  If you find your water supplies dwindling along the road, you can also signal your thirst by holding up an empty water bottle.  Passing motorists are happy to pull over and fill up the bottles and may even send you on your way with a few snacks!
the locals Mauritanians are conservative and reserved but polite and helpful towards travelers.  They all seem to want to do business, and you'll see many Mauritanian traders in other West African countries.  Women play a larger role in public life than in Morocco.  Watch out for over-charging on the overland route.
visas
 You can obtain a visa at the border.  Cost is 20 euros---don't pay more, even if the officials ask.
money 340 Oughias = 1 Euro (September 2006)

senegal.

routes & roads We pretty much followed a straight line south, and were on good paved roads almost exclusively.  Just a few rough spots and patches of potholes in the area around the Saloum Delta and Foundiougne.  But the scenery is spectacular there, and well worth a minor detour. Dakar and the surrounding area is a real headache to cycle in, and you're better off staying in Yoff or avoiding the city entirely if possible.
food & lodging You'll find Senegalese restaurants all over West Africa, serving up riz gras and other specialties, which says something (good) about the cuisine.  You'll find lots of small eateries, but street food doesn't seem to be as developed as in neighboring countries.  Hotels are of a reasonable standard, but will seem pricey if you've spent time in Morocco.  There aren't many backpackers around, so there's little pressure on prices.
the locals Senegal will likely be you first encounter with sub-Saharan Africa, and it's a pity, because the welcome you'll receive from the locals isn't a fair introduction to African hospitality.  You may be accused of racism if you don't stop for a lengthy discussion with each and every young man that stops you on the street.  If you do stop, you'll be pressured into looking at their art, handicrafts, postcards or whatever else they're hawking.  Young and able-bodied men (particularly in St. Louis) will ask for money and try to make you feel guilty for not providing them with work or handouts.  This constant hassling is wearing, and can easily color your impression of the entire population.
borders
 Don't let yourself get ripped off at the Rosso crossing.  Officials will try everything to get you to pay an extra 'processing fee'.  Stand firm and you'll get your passport back without lightening your wallet.
visas No visa necessary for EU nationals, Canadians and Americans.
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

the gambia.

routes & roads There are only two major roads in The Gambia:  the north bank highway and the south bank highway.  We chose to first follow the south bank road as it was the only one marked as paved on the Michelin map:  what a mistake.  It's undergoing rehabilitation and was a real mess when we were there in October 2006.  The north bank road, on the other hand, is smooth tarmac all the way to Janjanbureh (Georgetown).  There's nothing particularly stunning about the scenery, but the route is a good introduction to rural Africa and the villagers are friendly and hospitable.  Not much formal accommodation available, but the village headman should be able to arrange something with a local family.  No worries about water, as there are many villages with pumps along the way.  
food & lodging Outside of the coastal tourist area, there's not much in the way of restaurants.  Omelettes and bean sandwiches are vegetarian staples.  As mentioned above, staying with people is a viable option, and it is unlikely that you'll be asked for payment.  We  received invitations from locals we met cycling alongside us, and they provided us with bucket showers, a comfortable bed and dinner to boot.  At the end of the stay, we discreetly offered an envelope of cash with the equivalent of what we would have paid in a basic hotel, mentioning that we wanted to help with the kids' education.
In Bakau we had a very pleasant stay at the Danish-run African Heriage,  114 Atlantic Road. Clean, quiet, comfortable and and you can't beat the view of the fisherman's beach below.  A double room off season cost us 400 dalasis (12 euros).
the locals There are the usual hassles along the touristy areas of the coast and to some extent in Janjanbureh.  Otherwise, Gambians are very polite, open and curious.  They love a good discussion and are eager to learn more about life in the West.  In rural areas, kids will chase after the bikes and demand pens and sweeties.  This phenomena is only aggravated by tourists on their way to Georgetown, whizzing by in mini-buses and showering the kids with candy.
visas You can transit this country without a visa.  If you want to stay a bit longer, visas are required for French, Swiss, US and Japanese passport holders.  We picked ours up at the High Commission in Dakar.  If you fill out the application in the morning, you can get the visa in the afternoon on the same day.  
money 35.8 Dalasis = 1 euro (October 2006)

guinea-bissau.

routes & roads The road coming from Senegal leading to Guinea is paved and in good condition up until about 30 km before the border crossing.  Then conditions deteriorate progressively, until you're faced with a rough (and muddy depending on the season) track on the Guinea side.  The countryside is lush and pleasant enough, and there are some old colonial towns worth visiting along the way.
food & lodging We found comfortable and good-value lodging.  You may have to ask around, but in some towns there are private guest houses catering to the NGO crowd where you can spend the night.  Be sure to take a flashlight with when you venture out after dark, because power is not functioning in Guinea Bissau.  If you're lucky, the guest house will have its own generator and you'll be treated to a few hours of light in the evening.  For vegetarians, this will likely be your first encounter with potato salad in Africa--found all over Guinea as well.  Can be a bit strange with ketchup.  There's also spaghetti (make sure to specify without meat) and omelettes, of course.
the locals Hard to have many meaningful exchanges, unless you're fluent in Portuguese.  You will find that many people speak a bit of French, so you'll be able to make yourself understood for most basic needs--if you speak French that is.  The country sees few tourists and accordingly, there are few hassles.
visas Everybody needs a visa for Guinea-Bissau.  We got ours in The Gambia at the consulate conveniently located in Bakau on Atlantic Road not far from the post office.  You can get the visa on the spot.
money 656 CFAs = 1euro

guinea.

routes & roads Guinea is paradise for cyclists.  A pleasant climate in the highlands, spectacular scenery and mountains just steep enough to be a challenge, but gentle enough not to overwhelm less experienced cyclists.  You'll probably want to spend most of your time in the Fouta Djalon region or in Guinée Forestière, but be sure to check the security situation in the later as refugees from Liberia and Côte d'ivoire had been causing problems there.
Roads are not always well-maintained, and if you're coming from Guinea Bissau you'll have 200 kilometers of rough roads before reaching the tarmac just outside of Labé.  Bu don't let this put you off, the views are worth it and the hospitality is unbeatable.
food & lodging The Guinean Franc has been steadily losing value for several years and the country is now a real bargain for foreign tourists.  Outside of Conakry, you won't have to pay more than 5 USD for a decent room with en suite shower and toilet, although more often than not the municipal water supplies won't be working properly and water will be supplied in a bucket instead.  Ditto for electricity, which you'll find is a real rarity even though hotels have all the wiring in place.
Guinea is a fertile country and all kinds of fruits and vegetables can be grown there. Unfortunately, infrastructure and logistical problems mean that most produce is only sold locally.  You'll find juicy pineapples at rock-bottom prices in Kindia, but just 350 km away in Labé you'll have to scour the market to find one.  Potato salad, avocado salad and greasy omelettes sandwiches with a thick coating of mayonnaise will be mainstays for vegetarians. You can also try rice with sauce feuilles (ground cassava leaves), which is generally meatless and a hearty lunchtime filler-up.
the locals You'll be hard-pressed to find more hospitable people than the Guineans--in particular the Fula of the Fouta Djalon region.  You can expect to be greeted with a polite bonjour madam or monsieur, rather than a request for a gift and your stay is almost guaranteed to be hassle-free.  That said, border crossings may pose some difficulties with thinly-veiled requests for bribes.  We were easily able to shrug these off and no one really insisted on receiving those extra 'processing fees'.  Be sure to carry your international vaccination certificates, as these may be requested at police roadblocks.
visas You'll need a visa for Guinea.  Ours were obtained in The Gambia at the consulate in Tabokoto. They have moved out of central Banjul.  The office is located near the Shell Service Station in Churchill town and the official in charge is often out, so it may pay to call ahead: 990 99 64.  The whole set-up is a little unprofessional, but you should be able to get the visa on the same day if you ask politely.
money 8000 Guinean Francs =  1 Euro (November 2006)
 

sierra leone.

routes & roads After so many years of civil war, it's really not surprising that some of Sierra Leone's roads are in such deplorable condition.  Particularly bad , was the road from Kabala across the border in Guinea to Faranah:  severely rutted with many washed out sections-- and this was at the end of the rainy season.  Nothing really spectacular in the way of scenery, but no particular challenges either.
food & lodging Our outdated guidebook rates Sierra Leone as a very expensive destination in terms of lodging, but we didn't find this to be the case.  Even in Freetown we didn't pay more than 9 euros for a pleasant and clean room (Kington Guest house).  Outside the capital the rooms are relatively good value, but lack character and are often part of a bar/restaurant combination. This means noisy nights for tired cyclists.  When no formal accommodation was available, the village chief opened up a vacant home for us on one occasion and on another we stayed with an Italian priest.
There's lots of street food and snacks available and you'll find fried banana chips, peanut butter balls, extremely sweet sugar cookies, fish turnovers (pasties) and soft and sweet British-style bread.  
the locals Sierra Leoneans are more sophisticated than other West Africans and their culture has a somewhat American influence.  They're open to talking about the war and their country's future.  Tourists are still a rarity and you'll attract crowds of on-lookers--not just curious children.  We never felt threatened, but you will see some groups of rather tough-looking, tattooed teenagers.  It is unlikely that anyone will try to take advantage of you or cheat you as a tourist.  Sierra Leoneans are warm people and will go out of their way to ensure you have a pleasant stay in their still struggling country.
visas
 You'll need a visa for Sierra Leone. Ours were obtained in Conakri
money 3700 Leones = 1 Euro (November 2006)

mali.

routes & roads The scenery around Hombori is truly fantastic and not to be missed. Mali can be a challenging country for cyclists due to the heat, dust, long distances between settlements and often monotonous landscapes.  You may want to do as the locals, and wear a protective mask to keep out some of the particles.  The Gao-Niamey route posed some real difficulties for us, but its in the process of being paved and work should be finished in 2008.  The inland delta region around Massina offers good views of the Niger River and you pass by some spectacular mosques in the Sudanese style.  Depending on the season and the direction you're cycling, headwinds can be a real nuisance.  The harmattan blows down for the Sahara from December to February in a north-easterly direction and kicks up a lot of dust and can make cycling extremely unpleasant as well as unhealthy with all that dust being swallowed.
There's heavy traffic on the main road between Ségou and Bamako with buses roaring by and tooting their horns as a signal for you to pull over on the shoulder.  Otherwise roads are relatively quiet.
food & lodging Hotels are pricey compared with neighboring Guinea and quite basic for the most part.  in rural areas such as in the Dogon Country or Hombori, you can expect pit toilets and bucket showers and perhaps a few hours of electricity in the evening.  In towns without hotels, the mayor or village chief can usually arrange a stay with a family or in a public building such as a school or training center.  A small payment is usually required.  If you stay with a family, be sure to clear up money issues up front.  We failed to do this in one village, and were asked to pay a whopping 20,000 CFA (30 euros) for pitching our tent next to the stables in a family compound!  Of course we didn't pay this ridiculous sum, but the incident left a bad taste in the mouth. On several occasions when no formal accommodation was available, we inquired as to the presence of a local church and were able to camp inside the minister's compound or even sleep in the church itself.  We received a warm welcome and had a peaceful night's sleep.
Street food is plentiful and often quite tasty.  For non-meat eaters, salads, beans, macaroni, yams and omelettes will be the staples.  Fruit is hard to come by in such an arid country, but you should be able to find bananas, guavas, watermelon, oranges and mangoes in season.  Water pumps and taps are often locked as soon as the sun starts to set, and may open late in the morning, so be sure to fill up your bottles when you get the opportunity. Restaurants geared towards tourists aren't particularly good value, and outside of major cities, you won't find many restaurants catering to locals.
the locals Malians are open and like to engage tourists in conversation.  You'll receive enthusiastic greetings from villagers and from the children, the usual requests for gifts.  Don't expect  to be invited to a family home as a guest--payment will be expected.  If you eat at food stalls, there'll be a gang of young beggars hovering behind you waiting for scraps.  This is a heart-breaking situation, and unfortunately all too common in West Africa.
visas
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

niger.

routes & roads Some nice scenery along the Niger stretch of the Gao-Niamey route with the highway (in good condition) more closely following the river.  Settlements are widely spaced, and there's not much available in the way of food along some stretches, so stock up on provisions.
food & lodging  We spent just a few days in Niger, but in the towns we stopped along the Gao-Niamey route there was no choice of accommodation.  Just one soulless and overpriced hotel in each place we stayed.  The Catholic Mission in Niamey is well-located and peaceful, but watch out for the manager who can be difficult to deal with.
the locals It seems everyone in Niger expects a cadeau from passing tourists.  Fortunately, no one seems to insist, so all the requests are merely a slight irritation rather than a real hassle as in Senegal.  The country is desperately poor, and you'll encounter the usual child-beggars around food stalls.  They can be exceedingly polite and truly appreciate a little food and a few kind words.  Merchants may try to overcharge you in markets in Niamey.
visas
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

burkina faso.

routes & roads We came into Burkina from Niamey and crossed the border at the Kantchari post.  For a change there was a good, smooth tarmac road linking two countries.  We next turned south towards Diapaga and the Parc National d'Arly.  We were told by another cyclist that this was 'good piste', but would have to disagree with him, having done quite a lot of pushing through the sandy parts.  We got back on to a sealed road at Pama and then headed for Ouaga.  For a West African capital, traffic flows fairly smoothly in the city and its nothing like navigating your way through Dakar or Conakry.
From Ouaga we headed towards Ghana, taking in the sights at Tiébéle along the way.  This backroad, from Po to Bolgatanga, is in fact 'good piste' and you can race along without getting off to push.  
food & lodging Hotels in Burkina are decent value and you'll get more comforts (running water and electricity) than in Mali.  We found lots of Catholic Missions that had a Centre d'acceuil, where we could spend the night.  The normal rate is around CFA  7,000 for a twin room and they are usually very clean, quiet and set in nice grounds.
There are lots of good and cheap Senegalese restaurants scattered around the capital, serving up green beans (fresh!), salads, boiled potatoes in a stew, yams and the old staple--rice and beans.  You'll also find tasty yogurt--even in the smaller towns--and some crusty baguettes. In the evening these are served with sweetened-condensed milk as a filling--takes a little getting used to, but in the absence of other deserts, not bad.
656 CFA = 1euro
the locals We didn't spend much time in Burkina so it's hard to say a lot about the locals.  Friendly, polite and helpful was the overall impression.
visas
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

ghana.

routes & roads The north is very much like neighboring Burkina Faso and there's nothing too spectacular in the way of scenery.  The road to Mole National park was very rough when we visited--deep corrugations and lots of sand.  The road south from Mole to Kumasi is being upgraded and they should be finished paving the Bole-Banda section in the near future.  The Wenchi-Kumasi section is paved, but there are road works underway and the highway is a real mess in some sections.  Roads in the south, even those marked as minor on the Michelin map, are almost all paved and in good condition.  Traffic is heavy  on the coastal road, but there's a reasonably wide shoulder which is good for riding.  The winding roads and dense vegetation around Kumasi probably make for the best riding.  The ride to Lake Bosumtwi involves some steep hills, but there's light traffic and fantastic scenery.
From Accra it's worth heading north towards Akosombo Dam and Hohoé for some fine scenery on your way to Togo.  Be prepared for a tough climb on a rough road if you decide to go to Ghana's highest point (Mount Gemi), and the base village of Amedzofe.  If you can't make the last 4 kilometers up to Amedzofe, there's a nice government resthouse in the village below. 
food & lodging Hotels are fairly good value for money.  In the North rooms are cheaper--we paid 50,000 cedis for a basic guest house and for 70,000 we had a TV and fridge plus en suite bathroom. Camping is also an option at the touristy places on the beach--around 20,000 per person.  We found the food ´disappointing.  Staple vegetarian fare is fried rice topped with mayonnaise, ketchup and a little shredded cabbage.  There are also yam balls and boiled eggs in the south.  Pineapples are plentiful and very cheap.  For dessert there's locally made FanIce and FanYogo.  The bread is unbelievably bad, so eat your fill of baguettes in Burkina.
Ice-cold water is sold in small sachets along the main roads--very refreshing and cheap at 300 cedis.
the locals Ghana is a loud country.  The locals like to blast music at all hours of the day and crank the stereo up to the max, so that the music is distorted beyond recognition.  You won't find much solitude in the heavily populated south because the villagers will all be calling after you--the Obroni.  Everyone seems to want to have a good time, so if partying is your thing, you'll enjoy Ghana.  Despite Ghana being an English-speaking country, you may find communication difficult as the locals often can not respond to even simple questions.  This is  frustrating and hard to comprehend, as Ghana is touted as having a high literacy rate.
visas
money 12,000 Cedis = 1 Euro (January 2007)

togo.

routes & roads The cocoa triangle of Badou, Atakpamé and Kpalimé is highly recommended.  Beautiful scenery, cool air and some nice side trips to waterfalls and lookout points.  Roads are usually paved and in good condition.
food & lodging Accommodation is good value for money and normally comfortable and pleasant even in the budget category--enjoy it while you can because Nigeria won't be nearly as nice.  Lots of fresh salads available and you'll find yogurt and ice cream too.  Reasonably well-stocked supermarkets can be found in the larger towns.
the locals The Togolese are friendly enough and they won't hassle you for money or gifts.  
visas
 A six-day transit visa can be obtained at major border crossings for 10,000 CFA.  Visas obtained at consulates are much more expensive, for example 25,000 for a one-month visa obtained in Bamako.  
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

benin.

routes & roads The coastal road near Cotonou is very busy and unpleasant for cycling.  Otherwise the traffic wasn't too heavy and the roads were paved and in good condition.
food & lodging Benin boasts decent value hotels and a steady supply of water and electricity.  Street food was harder to come by than in Togo, and we often had to resort to eating in noisy bar/restaurants where the food was double the price and no better than what is normally sold at the street stalls.
the locals You'll be pestered for gifts by almost everyone you meet--this gets tiresome.  The people in Benin have something in common with those we met in Senegal, and this is not a compliment.
visas
 48-hour transit visas are easily obtainable at the border, but for the same price (10,000 CFA) you can get a two-week visa at the consulate in Accra or Lomé.
money 656 CFAs = 1Euro

nigeria

routes & roads Major roads are dangerous places, with drivers passing on steep uphill climbs, blind curves and basically driving all over the road at death-defying speeds.  Secondary roads are all together more pleasant and often paved.  Road conditions can change drastically,and without warning the tarmac may abruptly end and you're left with a sandy piste.  Always try to get advance info from locals regarding the state of the road as the Michelin map is not always accurate.  The country is far from flat and has some spectacular scenery.
food & lodging Nigeria is a culinary wasteland.  If you want decent food, you'll have to hunt hard and pay exorbitant prices.  The country's  only saving grace is the pineapples which are juicy and sweet.  If you're really desperate and on a tight budget, try the instant noodles Indo Mie--they're cheap and filling and one  acquires a taste for them over time.  Good Morning Instant Oats are also a good buy and make a delicious breakfast mixed with a little chocolate powder and instant milk.  The bread sucks.
Budget accommodation is often grubby and bucket showers and candles are the norm. We usually paid around 1,000 Naira for a basic room.  In Calabar we paid 2,000 for a decent room at the Elinah Guest house (running water, clean, generator, attached bath) but we had to bargain hard for this price.   Electricity is seldom supplied by the utility company (NEPA) and generators can be extremely noisy, so check to see where they're located and at what time they'll be turned off if you need quiet for a good night's rest.  
Water is widely sold in 500ml plastic sachets and it's cheap, which is a good thing, because pumps are hard to find.  Lots of communities, even those in not so remote places, still rely on water taken directly from a stream for bathing, washing and drinking--not very hygienic.
the locals You'll love the locals.  They'll be curious and full of questions and very impressed by your athletic prowess.  You may receive small gifts such as fruit or biscuits and everyone will go out of their way to ensure your comfort.  If you're looking for a hotel, someone will surely guide you, and there will be no expectation of a tip for the service rendered.  In the remote countryside you'll see a fair number of frightened children who will flee at the sight of a white man on a bicycle.  
visas Can be a bit tricky to obtain a visa.  In theory you should have a letter of invitation, but in practice this isn't always the case.  Some sort of official looking document, or even  a self-written letter explaining your 'mission' will probably do.  We went to the French Consulate in Accra and were able to get a 'letter of recommendation' from them.  The Nigerian officials will also want to see copies of health insurance coverage and proof of sufficient funds.  Here a photocopy of a credit card or travelers checks should suffice.  Most travelers seem to get the visa in the end, although it's a bit of a hassle.
money 165 Nairas = 1 Euro (February 2007)

cameroon

routes & roads Entering Cameroon via Ekang during the rainy season is inadvisable due to the extremely poor condition of the road.  There's a tarred section after Mamfé but then you'll run into piste again and this is hilly country, so again this would be difficult if the track turns to mud.  Once you hit Bamenda the road south to Yaoundé is paved and in good condition.  The ring road is still difficult due to the two bridges that are down.  We did the small ring road outlined in the Rough Guide, but the direct route between Wum and Fundong is in extremely bad condition and you'll be pushing over rock beds most of the way.  Nice scenery on the road between Bamenda and Yaoundé--paved all the way and traffic isn't too heavy--watch out for some steep climbs, though.
food & lodging  Cameroon will seem very modern if you're coming from Nigeria.  Accommodation is usually clean and relatively comfortable.  Bargaining usually goes down well and you might be able to reduce the room price by up to 50%.   We normally paid between 4,000 and 6,000 CFA f.or double  room.   Avocados are everywhere and they make a nice salad to go along with a spaghetti omelette. Bakeries and patisseries are fantastic in the francophone zone, but in the anglophone areas you'll mainly get Nigerian-style bread and maybe some spongy baguettes.  There's yogurt too, but a bit pricey at 300 CFA for a single-serving container.
the locals Cameroonians are a mixed bag.  We met lots of friendly people in the anglophone areas but met with some hostilities in the francophone region, in Yaoundé in particular.  Unprovoked comments from passers-by such as 'tourists go home' didn't make us feel welcome.  
visas We got our visas in Calabar on the same day.   You'll need a handwritten request for the visa, 2 passport photos and the cost is 50,000 CFA for 30 days.  Extensions cost another 50,000 for 30 days, and if you have a lot of patience, luck and strong persuasion skills, you might obtain one in Yaoundé.
money 500 CFAs = 1USD
660 CFAs = 1 Euro
You can use your VISA card to withdraw cash from ATMs in Bamenda and Yaoundé (and lots of other places too, no doubt).  Mastercard is not linked to the networks in Cameroon.
Apparently there are still some travelers who don't realize that you can't use West African CFA in the Central African zone (ie: Cameroon).  You'll get good rates and honest service if you change with Muslim Hausa traders in Calabar, Nigeria.

equatorial guinea 

routes & roads The government is on a paving spree which makes for nice cycling.  From Ebebiyin the road is paved all the way to Bata.  A direct road between Bata and Cogo is in the process of being paved so there's no need to take the long way through Mbini if you're heading towards Gabon. When we passed in April 2007, all but the last 70 or so kilometers before Cogo were already tarred.  
food & lodging Outside of Bata accommodation was between 4,000 and 6,000 CFA.  Bata is pricey and most places we checked wanted at least 20,000--ouch!  Finally got lucky and stumbled upon a hotel that had neither water nor electricity and let us have a room for 7,000 CFA.  Water seems to be tricky to find in towns and cities--most people get theirs from open wells.  Better to fill up in the countryside when you find a nice closed source of water.
the locals Since the country doesn't see many tourists you'll be a bit of a mystery.  On the whole people are friendly and nobody will hassle you for handouts. 
visas We got or visas in Yaoundé for 37,000 CFA.  If you show up in the morning, you should be able to have same day service.  
officials Entering the country at Ebebeyin, we were surprised to receive such a friendly  welcome and impressed by the efficiency of the officials.  Everything went well at the following roadblocks until just 25 KM before Cogo, where we fell prey to a drunken military man.  This was the only time we had to pay a bribe.  At the marina in Coga the official also demanded we pay a fee of  2,000.  We were fed up and refused to pay, but the official was very persistent and followed us to the pirogue and insisted we disembark.  Standing our ground worked and we got away without lining the pockets of any more corrupt individuals.  
Another cyclist who was traveling in the opposite direction was forced to leave his bike in Coga, travel to Bata by vehicle, obtain a tourism and photography permit (25,000  CFA, I think) and then return to Cogo before he was allowed to continue cycling.  Very bad luck.
money 500 CFAs = 1USD
656 CFAs = 1Euro

gabon

routes & roads The road from Cocobeach to Ntum is unpaved but pretty well graded.  Heavy rains change everything of course. The road from Libreville to the Congo border is paved until 50 KM south of Lambaréné.  The piste is fairly well-maintained, but if there's a lot of rain you'll be sloshing about in puddles and wallowing in muck.  A potential problem area is between Mouila and Ndendé where the road frequently floods and water can be waist-deep for several days.  From Mouila to the border the road is in better condition.
food & lodging Restaurants are almost all run by West Africans, usually Senegalese or Maliens.  You'll find authentic riz gras if you're lucky, otherwise just plain old rice with little flavor.  Most items in cafeterias are between 1,000 and 1,500 CFA -- everyone seems to have the same menu: Riz-Poisson, Riz-Viande, Omelette...not very inventive.  Street food is limited to bean sandwiches and brochettes for the meat-eaters.  Supermarkets can be found everywhere and they're usually well-stocked but expensive.  If you've become addicted to Chococam Tartina spread, no worries..it's available all over Gabon at a similar price to Cameroon.
We found lodging to be fairly reasonable outside of Libreville.  For a double room we normally paid between 3,000 and 5,000 CFA.  Electricity and water cuts are rare.  
Case de Passage (3,000 CFA) run by Florence in peaceful Ndendé is a nice place to stay before heading on to Congo.  In Fougamou try Auberge La Fifa (6,000 CFA), run by a friendly guy from Togo.  Les Soeurs Bleues in Libreville allow camping for 3,000 CFA per person.  Rooms at the mission are 7,000 CFA per person, although apparently the Africans pay just 7,000 per room.  We protested and got to stay the third night for free. It's a peaceful place to stay and not inconveniently located as it says in the LP.  Another plus is the use of a fridge.
The mission in Lambaréné only offers camping--2,500 per person.  Don't go to Hotel Rotin Palace in Mouila if you want a good night's rest free of rats.  Hotel Elibana (4,500 CFA)-run by a guy from Mali --is a better bet.  Clean and 'urinating in the shower' is forbidden.  In many hotels the shower doubles as a urinal--disgusting and smelly.
the locals The Gabonese are very polite people and in the villages everyone you pass will greet you with a bonjour madame (or monsieur).  Police and immigration are friendly, professional and even helpful at times.  You won't be asked to pay any extra formality fees.
visas Should be a straightforward, one-day process in Yaoundé. Only requirement is two passport photos. Cost is 35,000 CFA for 3 months. Flip-flops and shorts won't go down well at the embassy.  
money 500 CFAs = 1USD
656 CFAs = 1Euro
You can use your ATM card at several different banks in Libreville--visa only.

congo-brazzaville

routes & roads Roads are tough going from the Gabon border to Brazzaville and during heavy rains progress will be slow.  We heard mixed reports about the security situation around the Pool region where the Ninja rebels have their stronghold.  This stretch of road is also notoriously rough, so taking the train, as we did from Loutete, might be the best option.
food & lodging Not much to say about the food which seems to get increasingly bad as we head further south.  Outside of Brazzaville prices for lodging are reasonable for the region.  Best budget option in Brazzaville is the Sacré Coeur Mission which offers spacious and comfortable rooms in a quiet part of town.  Renovations were underway in June 2007, so prices may go up.  We paid 8,000 CFA ($16)for a double which was a bargain compared with other budget options.
the locals The country doesn't see too many travelers, so locals are generally eager to speak with any foreigners they come across.  We had some hassles at the border coming in from Gabon where are bags were thoroughly searched and the immigration officials tried hard to get us to pay an extra fee.  There are lots of police posts where you will be required to register.  This is normally just a minor hassle and officers will probably just ask you to give them a bit of money for a soda or fuel for the generator.  We never donated to these needy officials.
visas We got our visas at the border for 30,000 CFA--valid for 15 days.   This should be standard procedure, but the police wanted us to prove we were tourists.  Everything worked out in the end, but you may want to get the visa beforehand to avoid any possible problems.
money 500 CFAs = 1USD
656 CFAs = 1Euro


democratic republic of congo

airports We can't say much about roads because we flew between Kinshasa and Goma.  The airport in Kinshasa is pretty chaotic and services are very limited.  Transportation to the town center is expensive--taxi drivers were asking 30 USD.  Bravo Air Congo operates a bus service from its office to the airport which is very convenient.
food & lodging Pricey.  The mission places is Kinshasa were charging 60 USD.  A cheap room will be around 20 USD and you won't be getting much for your money.  Goma is much more reasonable. Don't miss the Salt and Pepper Indian Restaurant across from the barracks of the UN Indian contingent in Goma if you get stuck in this dusty town.
the locals We didn't spend much time in the country it's hard to form an opinion about the Congolese. Friendly enough but a lot of them were looking for a way to hustle  us.  The officials at the Goma crossing into Rwanda were helpful and professional.  
visas We got our visas in Brazzaville.  Cost was 35,000 CFA.  The usual two photos are required and if you drop off the application in the morning, you can pick up the visa in the afternoon.
money 500 Congolese Francs = 1USD (June 2007)
Dollars are very useful in DRC.  ATMs at the ProCredit bank in Kinshasa distribute dollars--max is $500 at the machine and $2,000 if you can inside to see a teller.

rwanda

routes & roads Fantastic scenery, smooth tarmac and sane drivers--a cyclist's dream.  You'll probably can't go wrong no matter what route you choose.  Well, you have to enjoy long climbs and there are some killers in Rwanda.  It is probably the cleanest country we've seen so far in Africa. Villagers take care to plant flowers and hedges in front of their simple homes and take pride in their country.
food & lodging We loved the all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffets in Rwanda.  They're a bargain at around 600 francs.  You can fill up on salad, chips, rice, spaghetti, beans, matoke, and various vegetables.  Best places to eat are the small restaurants attached to budget hotels.  Lodging is also a bargain, although there's not as much choice as in neighboring Uganda.  Here are some recommendations for those on a budget:
Kigali New Modern Lodge 5000
Gitarama Centre St Andre 6000
Butare Eden Garden Hotel 3500
Gisenyi Centre St. Francis Xavier 4000
the locals The locals are extremely friendly and welcoming.    Kids go mad when they see foreigners, but can be helpful pushers during the hard slogs uphill.
visas Americans receive 30 days at the border for free.  Many nationalities, including French citizens, need to apply in advance at an embassy or online (www.migration.gov.rwa).  In theory within two days you should receive an 'Entry Facility' form which should then be printed and presented at the border.  In practice this system doesn't work very well.  Eric applied numerous times online without response.  Fortunately, when we turned up at the border the missing 'Entry Facility' was no problem and he was granted a 15 day visa for a fee of $60. This fee must be paid in dollars.
money 550 Rwandan Francs = 1USD
630 Rwandan Francs = 1 Euro (July 2007)

uganda

routes & roads Predatory driving is the main problem in Uganda.  The road between Mbarara and Kampala is particularly dangerous due to the lack of shoulder and crazed mini-bus drivers.  North of Kampala up to Masindi is far quieter.  Pistes can be in pretty deplorable condition.  Lots of dust and rocks between Masindi and Kyanjojo.  Another very bad 35 Kilometer stretch just after Ishaka/Bushenyi heading towards the Rwanda border at Kagitumba.  Some great cycling nevertheless.  The minor road along near Lake Bunyoni should not be missed.  Ask locals as this is not indicated on the Michelin map.  You'll see wildlife cycling through Queen Elizabeth National Park and the road is flat, in excellent condition and there is limited traffic.
food & lodging Indian food is pretty widely available in the bigger towns.  Chapatis are a great filler-up for hungry cyclists and can be found even in very small villages. Don't miss Masala Chaat House in Kampala, they whip up a mean thali for lunch (6,000 USH).  Chips and omelettes are standard vegetarian fare and of course the old favorite, rice and beans.  Salads and yogurt aren't too difficult to come across.
Hotels are good value compared with West and Central Africa.  We normally paid around 8,000 Ush in mid-sized towns and in villages around 4,000 Ush.  It definitely pays to take a look around as standards vary considerably from hotel to hotel in the same price range.
Below are some recommendations.  We go for basic budget places that are quiet and clean.
Mbarara Pelican hotel 10,000
Masaka Backpackers campsite 8,000
Kampala Backpackers campsite 14,000
Migera Glory Inn 10000
Masindi Nuha Hotel 8000
Fort Portal New Linda GH 6000
Kasese Zebra Hotel 8000
Border Post Kagitumba Mountain View Inn (Uganda) 5000
the locals If you don't mind passing your days being chased after by wild groups of children shouting Mzungu, you'll have a great time in Uganda.  Locals are friendly but have no concept of time or distance.  Forget about asking them how far it is to the next village and how long it will take to cycle there.  One guy might say 5 kilometers and the next 50.  Watch out for over-charging.  Where tourists have passed they'll say a chapati costs 500 shillings when it's really 200 and even trivial things like sweets will triple in price.  When you let it be known you didn't just hop off the overland truck they'll laugh and sell you things at the normal price.
visas We got our visas at the border for 30 USD.   This must be paid in US dollars--there are people at the border ready to change but you'll get a better rate in Kampala or Kisoro.  It's a speedy, hassle-free process.  There is no $20 student visa as the Lonely Planet mentions.
money There are ATMs in all major towns.  Stanbic Bank has new ATMs in all branches where you can withdraw 800,000 shillings in one transaction.
1,650 Ugandan Shillings = 1USD
2,250 Ugandan Shillings = 1 Euro (July 2007)


burundi

routes & roads We had good paved roads from the Rwanda border up to Mabanda, 30 kilometers shy of the Tanzania border.  Very scenic route coming in from Rwanda , but be prepared for some hard climbs.  The descent into Bujumbura is spectacular with 30 kilometers of blissful cruising downhill.  There are villages every few kilometers the entire length of the country apart from this descent and the area near the Tanzania border.  When we passed (July 2007) the road into Bujumbara was being patrolled by military at regular intervals.  There's lots of traffic, so probably little security risk.  The road south of Bujumbura to Nyanza Lac is almost all flat.  After Nyanza Lac the road climbs steeply up to Mabanda, so it's probably better to spend the night in town and tackle the climb in the morning.  The immigration post if you're heading on to Tanzania is just outside of Mabanda so be sure to stop there and get your exit stamp.  We really enjoyed this small country and highly recommend it.
food & lodging We found lodging to be fairly good value.  Don't miss the Ganga Guesthouse 88 kilometers from Butare--great views of the surrounding mountains and a real deal at 7,000 Francs.  In Bujumbura The Rossignol Inn (10,000 francs)near the Finance Ministry has quiet,  good value rooms with attached bath and a very friendly family running the place.  There's a basic and not so clean Catholic Resthouse in Nyanza Lac.  Try the wholewheat bread and cakes at Kappa Bakery in the capital and say hello to the warm-hearted Cypriot owner.
the locals We had a great time trying to communicate with the local people.  They liked to chat and accompany us as we rode.  The kids are a big help if your legs are collapsing on some of the climbs.  
visas We got our visas at the Kayanza border post.  20 USD for three days.  Extensions are straightforward at the immigration office in Bujumbura.  Cost is $1 per day with a 5 day minimum.  The usual two photos are required and if you drop off your passport in the morning, you can pick up the visa extension in the afternoon.
money 550 Burundian Francs = 1USD
750 Burundian Francs = 1 Euro (July 2007)
You can change money at the border, but rates are better in Bujumbura.  To the best of our knowledge, there are no ATMs that accept international cards.  You'll get a better rate at the Forex offices than if you change on the street.  If you need to change money on a Sunday try the guys who hand out in front to the Hotel Novotel.  They can also give you directions to the Rossignol Inn, but they might tell you its a dirty place without securtiy (untrue!).

tanzania

routes & roads We entered Tanzania from Burundi at the border post of Manyovu.  It's a 66 kilometer ride on a fairly rough road from there to the center of Kigoma.  We debated taking the inland route through Kasula, Katavi National Park and on to Sumbawanga, but in the end decided against it.  We were told by expats and locals alike that the road is in extremely poor condition, the region is very desolate  with few villages, there is little traffic (perhaps two vehicles a day) and long stretches with no possibility of finding water.  Tsetse flies are also a problem in the National Park.  One French guy who had done the trip in a 4WD said it took him an entire day to drive 100 KMs.  That said, we were in contact with a Swedish cyclist who did the route so it is possible if you're really hard-core.  He said it's definitely not easy cycling and he had to resort to getting water from streams.  In the dry season this might not be feasible.

Easier travel is via the MV Liemba which leaves Wednesday afternoon and arrives in Kasanga Friday morning.  A first class cabin costs $62 ($65 if you go all the way to Mpulugu), payable only in US dollars.  Tickets go on sale Monday morning.  When we arrived at the ticket office early Monday morning we were told that all first class cabins had already been reserved.  After a little insisiting that we needed our own cabin the ticket agent scribbled our name in the reservation book and sold us the tickets anyway.  Other tourists who arrived the day of departure were also able to get first class cabins.  Decent food is available on board for 2,500 schillings per meal.  The cabins have a sink and a shower is also available, although our fellow tourists complained of the lack of cleanliness--Amaya found it to be better than a lot of other places we'd endured.
There's not much in Kasanga but it's a pleasant enough village and there's a guesthouse and small restaurant.  There's a shortcut between Matai and Mpui, so you don't need to go all the way back up to Sumbawanga, as many locals might suggest.  This shortcut road is in good condition, in fact better condition that the main 'highway' between Mpui and Tunduma.  This is because the shortcut road is narrow so there are no heavy trucks passing that way.
Here's a rundown of villages you'll pass:
Kasanga
Kawala
Kisumba-Kasote: Guesthouse here and small restaurants
Limba
Mkaowe
Mbuza
It's 67 kilometers from Kasanga to Matai.
Matai: try Santa Maria Hotel (it's a restaurant) for tasty food from the friendly Rwandan owner
After Matai you need to get on the shortcut road.  At the intersection, take a right out of town.  Then a couple more kilometers along this road you'll have to take a left towards Munga.  If you keep going straight you'll end up in Zambia.  The road is fairly flat and there were no corrugations and not too much sand.    Here's the list of villages you'll pass:
Munga
Kalalasi
Itegresha
Chilesha
Kambo
Mwazte: Guesthouse and Restaurants, from here there are a couple of roads heading in different directions so make sure you get the road to Mpui--there's a signboard but you could easily miss it so ask for directions.
Musoma
Ilembo
Mpui
From Matai to Mpui it's also 67 kilometers.
After Mpui there's quite a bit of traffic and the road is badly corrugated in some places and there are some sandy spots as well.  You'll probably have had enough of the piste when you arrive in Tunduma. Laela (35KMs) and Dalambo (120 KMs) are the only towns between Mpui and Tunduma. Getting water can be a problem as there are few villages with wells.  Stock up when you can.
food & lodging  Tanzania is a bargain for lodging.  We never paid more than 7,000 schillings.  Food is nothing to write home about.  The culinary highlight for vegetarians is the Chipsi Omelette.  Here are some hotel recommendations:
Kigoma Mapinduza Lodge
near train station, take a room in block B, quiet and very clean		 5000
Tunduma Chambo Lodge
on the right before you reach the tarmac, comfortable and quiet		 7000
Mbeya Karibuni Centre (camping)
pleasant suroundings, but a bit pricey--ask for a warm bucket of water for washing--beware of the dogs after 10PM--some books available at the reception		 6000
Tukuyu Langiboss
quiet, great views and friendly owner, food available		 5000
the locals Compared with neighboring countries, locals get much less excited about two passing Wzungu on bicycles.  Friendly but reserved was our general impression of Tanzanians.  We were very well received in the villages where we camped and there was no expectation of payment or demands of gifts.
visas We got our visas in Kampala--$50, payable only in US dollars.  It is apparently possible to get a two-week transit visa for $30 in Kigoma.  At the border you are supposedly able to get 3 days entry (for free) enabling you to get to Kigoma and sort out the visa.  This is what the immigration officers told us, but things change so best to confirm this before setting out without a visa.  
If you take the MV Liemba all the way to Mpulunga, Zambia don't forget to get your exit stamp in Kigoma.  In theory it's possible to get the stamp in Kasanga, but this could be a very short stop (as it was for us) and extremly hectic.  The boat might just pull away will you're still waiting for the officer to find the right stamp.
money There are ATMs in most towns. Maximum withdrawl per transaction is 400,000 shillings.  If you're coming from Burundi, change money on the Burundi side.
1,200 Tanzanian Shillings = 1USD
1,700 Tanzanian Shillings = 1 Euro (August 2007)

malawi

routes & roads We entered Tanzania from Burundi at the border post of Manyovu.  It's a 66 kilometer ride on a fairly rough road from there to the center of Kigoma.  We debated taking the inland route through Kasula, Katavi National Park and on to Sumbawanga, but in the end decided against it.  We were told by expats and locals alike that the road is in extremely poor condition, the region is very desolate  with few villages, there is little traffic (perhaps two vehicles a day) and long stretches with no possibility of finding water.  Tsetse flies are also a problem in the National Park.  One French guy who had done the trip in a 4WD said it took him an entire day to drive 100 KMs.  That said, we were in contact with a Swedish cyclist who did the route so it is possible if you're really hard-core.  He said it's definitely not easy cycling and he had to resort to getting water from streams.  In the dry season this might not be feasible.

Easier travel is via the MV Liemba which leaves Wednesday afternoon and arrives in Kasanga Friday morning.  A first class cabin costs $62 ($65 if you go all the way to Mpulugu), payable only in US dollars.  Tickets go on sale Monday morning.  When we arrived at the ticket office early Monday morning we were told that all first class cabins had already been reserved.  After a little insisiting that we needed our own cabin the ticket agent scribbled our name in the reservation book and sold us the tickets anyway.  Other tourists who arrived the day of departure were also able to get first class cabins.  Decent food is available on board for 2,500 schillings per meal.  The cabins have a sink and a shower is also available, although our fellow tourists complained of the lack of cleanliness--Amaya found it to be better than a lot of other places we'd endured.
There's not much in Kasanga but it's a pleasant enough village and there's a guesthouse and small restaurant.  There's a shortcut between Matai and Mpui, so you don't need to go all the way back up to Sumbawanga, as many locals might suggest.  This shortcut road is in good condition, in fact better condition that the main 'highway' between Mpui and Tunduma.  This is because the shortcut road is narrow so there are no heavy trucks passing that way.
Here's a rundown of villages you'll pass:
Kasanga
Kawala
Kisumba-Kasote: Guesthouse here and small restaurants
Limba
Mkaowe
Mbuza
It's 67 kilometers from Kasanga to Matai.
Matai: try Santa Maria Hotel (it's a restaurant) for tasty food from the friendly Rwandan owner
After Matai you need to get on the shortcut road.  At the intersection, take a right out of town.  Then a couple more kilometers along this road you'll have to take a left towards Munga.  If you keep going straight you'll end up in Zambia.  The road is fairly flat and there were no corrugations and not too much sand.    Here's the list of villages you'll pass:
Munga
Kalalasi
Itegresha
Chilesha
Kambo
Mwazte: Guesthouse and Restaurants, from here there are a couple of roads heading in different directions so make sure you get the road to Mpui--there's a signboard but you could easily miss it so ask for directions.
Musoma
Ilembo
Mpui
From Matai to Mpui it's also 67 kilometers.
After Mpui there's quite a bit of traffic and the road is badly corrugated in some places and there are some sandy spots as well.  You'll probably have had enough of the piste when you arrive in Tunduma. Laela (35KMs) and Dalambo (120 KMs) are the only towns between Mpui and Tunduma. Getting water can be a problem as there are few villages with wells.  Stock up when you can.
food & lodging  Tanzania is a bargain for lodging.  We never paid more than 7,000 schillings.  Food is nothing to write home about.  The culinary highlight for vegetarians is the Chipsi Omelette.  Here are some hotel recommendations:
the locals Compared with neighboring countries, locals get much less excited about two passing Wzungu on bicycles.  Friendly but reserved was our general impression of Tanzanians.  We were very well received in the villages where we camped and there was no expectation of payment or demands of gifts.
visas We got our visas in Kampala--$50, payable only in US dollars.  It is apparently possible to get a two-week transit visa for $30 in Kigoma.  At the border you are supposedly able to get 3 days entry (for free) enabling you to get to Kigoma and sort out the visa.  This is what the immigration officers told us, but things change so best to confirm this before setting out without a visa.  
If you take the MV Liemba all the way to Mpulunga, Zambia don't forget to get your exit stamp in Kigoma.  In theory it's possible to get the stamp in Kasanga, but this could be a very short stop (as it was for us) and extremly hectic.  The boat might just pull away will you're still waiting for the officer to find the right stamp.
money There are ATMs in most towns. Maximum withdrawl per transaction is 2000 Kwachas.  
130 Malawian Kwachas = 1USD
175 Malawian Kwachas = 1 Euro (August 2007)

zambia

routes & roads
Major roads in Zambia are in good condition.  The road from Chipatas to South Luangwa National Park is another story.  It's rough going with corrugations, sand and potholes.  Not much fun really.  If you want to visit the park consider catching a lift with other tourists or using local transport.  Zambia is actually quite hilly and only really flattens out about 100 kilometers from Lusaka.  The Lusaka-Livingstone stretch is fairly flat with the exeption of one 'pass' not far from Lusaka.  Winds will make a difference in how fast you go.  If you're heading southwest, they should be favorable.  
food & lodging  We only camped in Zambia.  
the locals Zambians struck us as very happy people.  If you're fed up with all the attention you received in Malawi you'll, be relieved to cause much less of a stir in Zambia.  
visas Be sure to arrange for a visa waiver before you reach the border.  If you're coming from Malawi, contact Flat Dogs or Wildlife Camp and they'll put your name on the waiver list as long as you give them a few days advance notice and provide them with your personal details. Of course you should then stay with them at South Luangwa and book a safari.  If you're coming from Namibia, Jollyboys in Livingstone should also be able to arrange a visa waiver for you, although I believe its a bit more complicated and you must book some sort of package.  Visas are expensive at 60USD a pop so a waiver is worth the extra effort.
money There are ATMs in most towns. Maximum withdrawl per transaction is 2,000,000.
3,650 CKwachas = 1USD
4,928 VKwachas = 1 Euro (September 2007)

zimbabwe

routes & roads Not much we can say about routes and roads because we just went from Vic Falls to the Botswana border.
food & lodging  When we visited Vic Falls in late September there was food available at the guesthouse but the supermarket shelves were looking pretty bare.
the locals We've met lots of Zimbabweans all over Africa and we like them a lot.  Too bad the country is such a mess.  It seems everybody from Zimbabwe (blacks and whites) absolutely loves the country and can't wait to return.  As I said, we've talked with more people from Zimbabwe outside of the country than inside it.  
visas You can get your visa hassle-free a the border for 30 USD.
money Everybody knows about inflation in Zimbabwe so there's not much point in quoting exchange rates.  We paid for our guesthouse in USD and brought in all the food we needed, so we never even changed any money.  There are people on the street who want to change, but its probably best if you work through the guesthouse where you're staying our slip into one of the shops and get advice.

botswana

routes & roads Your main concerns will be finding water and avoiding dangerous wildlife.
food & lodging  Accomodation in Botswana can be pricey.  Camping will be at least $5 per person.  Sympathetic lodge owners may give you a discount if you're raising funds for a charity.  Several times we camped at police compounds.  The officers were very professional and there was never any hassle.  Fortunately food is less expensive than in neighboring Zambia. The cheapest supermarket is Choppies.  Kasane, Maun and Ghanzi have large grocery stores, but Nata only has a couple of small shops and a filling station(where everything costs more).  Gweta has a filling station located on the main road where you can get some basic supplies and tasty fast food (pumpkine purée).  Pandamatenga has overpriced and greasy fast food and a small shop on the main highway.
the locals There's a noticeable white population in Botswana.  Most lodges are run by them as well as many farms and shops.  These people where incredibly kind to us.  The (black) Botswanans were also very helpful, especially the police officers and staff at veterinary checks who filled our water bottles up.  It's a sparsely populated country, so you just don't run into many people.
visas Immigration is fast, efficient and free!
money There are ATMs in most towns.
6.43 Pulas = 1USD
8.68 Pulas = 1 Euro (September 2007)

namibia.

routes & roads Your main concerns will be finding water.
food & lodging  
the locals
visas Immigration is fast, efficient and free!
money 6,69 Namibian Dollars = 1USD
9.78 Namibian Dollars = 1 Euro (November 2007)
Same value as the Rand.

south africa.

routes & roads

food & lodging  In three months we only paid for accommodation a handful of times.  Lots of people invited us to stay with them and campsite owners often let us stay for free after we explained our project and fundraising for CAMFED.
the locals South Africans are fantastically friendly.  Tell them you're looking for a campsite or the local backpackers and there's a good chance you'll be invited home.  We arranged accommodation in Cape Town and Durban through Hospitality Club and had very positive experiences both times.  All the talk of crime can be disheartening, but don't let it cast a negative spell over your travel experience.  We never got robbed, but the risk is real so be cautious.  If this had been our first African country and we had taken to heart everything the (white) South Africans told us about blacks we probably would have never continued further north.
visas Immigration is fast, efficient and free!
money 6,69 Rands = 1USD
9.78 Rands = 1 Euro (November 2007)

lesotho.

routes & roads

food & lodging  
the locals
visas Immigration is fast, efficient and free!
money 6,8 Malotis = 1USD
10 Malotis = 1 Euro (December 2007)
Same value as the Rand.

qatar.

routes & roads

food & lodging  
the locals
visas We were in transit. No visa required. We wandered around the city but were later told that we were supposed to stay at the hotel.
money 3,6 Ryials = 1USD
5,25 Ryials = 1 Euro (January 2008)

india.

routes & roads

food & lodging  
the locals
visas Got six months visa from the Durban consulate. Took 5 working days. Cost 600 Rands (ca 60 Euros). Visa starts the day it is issued, not the day of arrival.
money 39 Rupees = 1USD
57.5 Rupees= 1 Euro (January 2008)